Singapore Seafood

Steam boatLast time my mum went to Singapore, all she could talk about was this great all-you-can-eat steamboat place with tons of seafood on Beach Road. So we made a beeline for this place on our first night there. I use ‘beeline’ in a loose sense of the word, as we got horribly lost and spent hours wandering around in the heat before giving up and catching a taxi there.

There’s a few of these places all next to each other, and all roughly $20 per head. You get a big pot of broth (or two with a divider), and go up to grab food from the buffet to poach in the broth. There was all kinds of seafood, thin slices of beef and pork, fish balls, mushrooms, greens and a bunch of stuff I didn’t recognise. They also had a selection of dipping sauces and accompaniments, and some coolers with a few different kinds of fruit juice or cordial. There’s some pretty great stuff up there, but you have to be quick – I noticed one table would watch for the staff to bring out a new batch of crabs or prawns, then immediately go up and grab almost all of it (their plate of shells was truly impressive). Steamboat in Australia tends to have a smaller variety and costs a lot more, so if you love your seafood it’s definitely worth trying in Singapore!

Chilli crabChilli crab was our biggest splurge, but it’s apparently not to be missed in Singapore! I wish I’d done some research and found the best place to eat it, but although I felt vaguely like we were getting ripped off the riverside restaurant on Clarke Quay was pretty lovely. There’s a big line of seafood restaurants along the river, all competing for the custom of people walking past. We went into one that offered us a ‘special deal’ of $4.30 per 100grams of mud crab (this is the cheapest crab on the menu). It doesn’t sound so bad when you put it that way, but the smallest crab they had was 2.2kg! I rarely eat crab so don’t really have any local pricing to compare it to, but it did feel like a bit of a shock after spending the past few days eating $2-$5 hawker food. The crab was delicious, and the sauce/soup oddly sweet with just a hint of chilli heat. I think it’s also probably way too much food for two small women to eat in one sitting, although my mum (not to be ripped off) made a valiant effort and pretty much finished it. I’m really glad that I tried this classic dish, although I can’t actually say that I enjoyed it more than a $3 chicken rice so I’m not sure it’s something I’ll be repeating in a hurry!

Singapore Foods

Back to my Singapore trip!

So I’ve talked about another major activity in Singapore, shopping. But I’m told that the number one thing to do in Singapore is eat. There’s good reason for this – in terms of food there’s excellent representation from three of the major cultures present on the island (Chinese, Malay and Indian) as well as a host of other cuisines. Possibly because of the sheer number of eating establishments, quality is almost always excellent and in general extremely cheap by Western standards. I spent 5 days in Singapore, which some people have told me was enough to see all there is to be seen (it wasn’t); even if this were true, it wouldn’t be anywhere to eat all there is to be eaten.

With a finite amount I could fit into my stomach, I tried my best to make each meal and snack count – don’t you dare waste valuable eating space on a chain junk food restaurant!

Fruits and juices in SingaporeBetween our hotel and the train station was Bugis Street, a sort of covered market with big fruit stalls at either end and many little food and juice stalls inside, as well as tons of cheap bags, clothes and watch stores. Being a fan of tropical fruits my mum went nuts buying the ones that are expensive in Australia, and for a few days we ate them for breakfast. My favourite was mangosteens, although I was also impressed by the papaya (which I usually dislike). I didn’t dare try the durian – even in the open air you could really smell it around the stall!

Juice stalls seem pretty ubiquitous in Singapore, with prices varying according to the location. I think I bought a juice in Bugis Street almost every time I went through it – the sugar cane is extremely refreshing in the warm weather, but my favourite was definitely the avocado juice.

ice cream!Also ubiquitous in Singapore, and also on the way to the nearest train station (meaning I ate at least one every day) are these little ice-cream carts, which I’ve never seen anywhere else before. The ice-cream comes in large blocks, which the vendor will cut a slab from for you and hand it to you wedged between two wafers or a slice of sweet bread. Genius! Unless you eat it too slow, and the warmth of your hand melts the end. The best thing about these is the ice-cream comes in flavours that you don’t get at home – red bean (above), mango, durian, taro, corn(!?) – as well as more standard flavours. My favourite was definitely the mango.

Hawker centres and street foodHawker centers and food courts make up for what they lack in ambiance with cheap, awesome food. The best hawker center I visited was the main one in Little India, although I barely scratched the surface really. The best stalls will have long lines, and often sell out quite early (I’m still sad we missed out on roti prata!). The problem with these places is that there’s too much to choose from – my mum and I would be complaining that we can’t eat another thing one moment, then spying an excellent dish on a neighbouring table that we just had to try. I’ve resolved to spend a good portion of my next trip to Singapore in Little India hawker centers just eating Indian food – the briyani I had was amazing! There’s always fruit juice stalls in these places, so a refreshing lime or sugar cane juice really hits the spot.

This post is ending up massive, so I’ll continue in a few more posts over the next week. Coming soon: chilli crab, seafood steamboat, and high tea!

Singapore Shopping

Apparently in Singapore there are two favourite activities: eating (I’ll come back to that one later) and shopping! I didn’t have much money to spend so didn’t expect to do much in the way of shopping, but with a rainy day to kill and the current excellent exchange rate things turned out a little differently.

First I headed to the current mecca for shopping tourists in Singapore – Orchard Road. If you’re even vaguely into shopping and have a rainy morning to deal with, as I did, this is a pretty good place to be. The Orchard MRT station is right under the ION Orchard shopping mall, and most of the malls in the area are connected by tunnels or walkways – meaning you pretty much don’t have to leave the air-conditioning. Most of the shops that I saw were regular international and high street brands, but as we don’t have a lot of them in Perth and the exchange rate made them reasonably inexpensive I managed to pick up a few nice pieces.

The weather cleared up in the afternoon, so I headed out of Orchard and for another shopping area I’d heard about – Haji Lane. Haji Lane is in the Arab area of Singapore, and honestly looks a little disappointing from the street, especially in the early afternoon when shops have just opened and there are few people around. It looks like a little laneway with Singapore’s usual colourful facades, but not so much the home of Singapore’s independent designers and quirky goods.

But then I started going into shops and realised what a find this place really is. I liked Orchard Road alright, and always have a good time at markets… but this sort of place is where I really feel at home. The shop assistants were kind and helpful, and the clothes and accessories are colourful, good quality and actually reasonably cheap. I had to keep reminding myself (and failing) that I wasn’t supposed to buy any more cute dresses or bags or trinkets. I only made it half way down the lane before I had to leave to meet my mum, and never had a chance to go back before I left. If I ever go back to Singapore again, this will most definitely be a stop.

If you want to check out Haji Lane, make sure to go when the shops are open from 1pm to around 10pm – with the night being the busiest time. Don’t forget to go to upstairs shops – it’s definitely worth your while. I didn’t get time to explore the rest of Arab Street, but apparently there’s good food and shisha bars to relax with after a hard day of shopping. I’ll definitely be skipping Orchard next time and returning here instead.

Here’s my haul in the end – not a huge amount, but I really shouldn’t have been shopping in the first place!

  • striped and spotted sweaters from Mango in ION Orchard
  • navy pants from Uniqlo in ION Orchard
  • brown Peter Pan collared dress from Fabulous Fads on Haji Lane
  • red pleated dress from local designer Wicked Laundry on Haji Lane
  • adorable convertible satchel/backpack from a shop on Haji Lane that I’ve forgotten the name of!

 

 

Greetings from Singapore!

blurry scenery...

I’m really enjoying it here! Oddly enough it’s actually hotter back home in Perth right now, although here it’s much much more humid. Apart from the humidity, Singapore is a very easy city to travel around – the train system is very straightforward and frequent, and in general you feel very safe. A friend described it to me as “Sydney, but with less white people”, which makes a strange sort of sense now that I’m here.

I’ve been taking photos and notes so I can write up some posts about it all later, but here’s a few photos from tonight’s visit to the Merlion Park. These are pretty much the only photos of me that I’ve taken so far – I don’t like to hand over my DSLR, so I’m doing self-portraits MySpace style. Unfortunately at night this doesn’t work so well as it’s too dark to use a longer aperture and get both myself and the scenery in focus!

...or blurry Chisa!

Travel essentials

One of the benefits of doing Project 333 is that you’re already working with a limited set of items and have already thought about the potential combinations, so a packing list ends up just being a subset of that (assuming you’re going to a place with a similar climate, like I am). I’ve had to deviate a bit though – just an addition of a sun hat, swimwear and pants with better pockets. Plus stuff to wear on the plane, which is basically pyjamas really – we’ll be landing at 3am!

Carry onThese are some of my essentials, which will be coming with me in carry-on. Mastering the art of travelling without checked luggage is on my to-do list, but with a 7kg, one bag limit on Tiger and my camera gear weighting about 4kg already, I’m not sure that’s likely to happen any time soon.

Anyway, here’s my travel essentials:

  • Camera gear. Obviously.
  • Smart phone, for storing documents and media, and accessing wifi.
  • Something warm and comfortable to wear on the plane and over air-conditioned hotel rooms.
  • Snacks! Especially on a budget airline that doesn’t give you food. I’m taking a dried fruit and nut mix, and my mum is packing sandwiches.
  • Reading materials – I get through books very quickly, so a Kindle ends up smaller and lighter for me.
  • A scarf, for covering when it’s a little chilly or in religious buildings.
  • Notebook and pen/pencil for sketches and ideas.
  • A billion packs of tissues, because I seem to always get sick on flights.
  • Empty water bottle to fill up in the departure lounge.

I don’t think I’ve emphasised enough how much I love this ONA camera satchel – it’s one of the most beautiful and expensive non-tech items that I own. It’s a bit on the heavy side and I’m terrified of getting the leather exterior wet, but it fits everything beautifully and is about a million times nicer (and less obvious) than a regular camera bag. It also fits nicely under the seat on an airplane, so I don’t have to freak out about someone knocking my camera in the overhead compartments.

Usually I travel with my Canon 16-30L lens and the ‘nifty fifty’ 50mm f1.8, but as I’m going to the zoo I wanted to also take something with a bit more zoom power, the 24-70L. It’s a bit of a heavy load, but I’m hoping the photos will be worth it.

I’m off!